Itinerary

 Oct 28-Nov 7, 2024 

Mon, Oct 28 –

Arrival in Tbilisi, Borjomi

 We should all aim to land before 2 pm if possible. Having said that, we will work to accommodate everybody.

 Meet and greet, and have some refreshments (or lunch) in Tbilisi before heading to our first overnight stop in Borjomi (~3 hrs bus ride). Borjomi is a welcoming quaint spa resort, famous for its mineral water springs.

After checking in and getting a bit of rest, we will meet at the welcome dinner to enjoy the wonderful grilled meats of Georgian cuisine (courtesy of Gia Tesoshvili, the absolutely best kosher caterer in a country with ample competition) along with folk dance and singing.

 Tues, Oct 29 –

Borjomi-Vardzia-Akhaltsikhe-Borjomi

 It's a long and exciting day, folks. In the morning, we set out down south, towards the sprawling cave monastery of Vardzia, just a few kms shy of the Turkish border (about 2.5 hrs ride from the hotel). Basically a whole city carved in the rock, it dates back to the 12 c. We will dedicate the entire morning to exploring the complex and learning about the lives of its inhabitants.

After lunch at a restaurant in the area, we trace our path about half way back, to the town of Akhaltsikhe The synagogue here boasts a gorgeous wooden carved interior with geometrical motives, and the oldest Torah scroll in Georgia. After admiring it and meeting with one of the few remaining members of the local Jewish community, we will explore the old city fortress of Rabati - which still contains the oldest synagogue in the country.

 Return to Borjomi for dinner, and perhaps an evening stroll in Borjomi park if you are up to it and the weather cooperates.

 Wed, Oct 30 –

Kutaisi

This morning, we will head northwest to Kutaisi, the biggest city in central Georgia, and one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world.

About an hour out of Borjomi, we will make a stop in the small town of Surami to visit its synagogue and learn about the life and history of the local community. A couple more hours by bus will see us in Kutaisi. We'll start here by visiting the famous karst cave in Tsqaltubo, known as Prometheus Cave since the ancient legend associates the Greek deity with those very mountains. About 10% of the 11-km long cave is open for visitors, making for a pleasant walk in the romantically lit passages.

Then, we'll move on to the two 11th c. monasteries, Gelati and Motsameta standing nearly side-by-side (an old persistent tale claims there is an underground passage connecting the two). Expect impressive architecture, dramatic mountain views, and a thousand years' worth of legends.

We end the evening with dinner and rest at the Kutaisi Inn.

 Thur, Oct 31 –

Kutaisi-Gori-Tbilisi

After breakfast, we'll start the morning exploring the synagogue and the old town (it is small but has character). Then, we part from the western region of Imereti and head back east towards the capital. Our first major stop on the way is Gori. Barely more than a village in the old days, it gained its share of limelight as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. We'll make our way to the Stalin museum, see the relics of the days of terror and the cult of Stalin, view the tyrant's personal railroad car, and even the house where he was born. We will learn about the interesting and ambiguous views of Stalin that the locals hold.

We are not going to part from the city right away though; not before we visit the small synagogue and talk to the few Jews who remain in place.

Once leaving Gori behind, we'll make a beeline for Tbilisi where our hotel and dinner awaits us. (Total bus time for the day ~4.5 hrs)

*  One possible scheduling insertion for this day will include a cooking workshop with a local family in Gori, followed by lunch (in which case, the lunch on that day will be included in the package instead of the dinner in Tbilisi). We'll be wiser once we can gauge the size of our group.

Fri, Nov 1 –

Tbilisi

Today is a shorter day, giving us time to get ready for Shabbat. 

We will explore the city, starting from its founder's statue in front of the old Metekhi church, admiring architectural specimens of different centuries, weaving our way by the streets and alleys, we'll let the cable car take us to the park under the statue of Mother Georgia that offers the best panoramic view of the city. On our return from the mountain (walking down from the opposite slope - with the option of using the cable car again if you find the stairs challenging) we will reach the old bath houses. After about 2-2.5 hours we will pass by the hotel. Anyone tired enough is welcome to stay and rest, while the more energetic in our midst are invited to continue the walk towards the newer and posher Rustaveli avenue.

Shabbat starts just before 6 pm.

Gia will throw us a festive dinner right after the Kabbalat Shabbat service.

 Sat, Nov 2 –

Tbilisi

As is our practice on Shabbat on a trip, there will be the option of going to the synagogue for the start or in the middle of the service (and if you sleep in and don't come at all, we won't tell - you'd be missing out though!). After the Synagogue and Shabbat meal, we are going on an exciting leisurely walking tour of the Old Town.

Afraid be not, there will also be time to rest.

 At the end of Shabbat, we are immediately going to enjoy a dinner with a folklore show at one of the best night restaurants in the city.

 Sun, Nov 3 –

Mtskheta-Jinvali-Ananuri-Gudauri

Hopefully, you haven't gone to bed too late. Because right after breakfast, we are off north, to the majestic Kazbek mountain (spoiler; while enjoying the views of this 5,000m high peak, we will not advance higher than 1,850m ourselves).

 Our total driving time for the day should be around 3-3.5 hours but the many engaging stops on the way will take most of the day. First, we will explore the ancient capital of Mtskheta with its powerful walls and fortifications. We'll roam its streets, admire the sight of the imposing cathedral, get acquainted with local spices at the small market outside the city gate, and see the Cross Monastery perched atop a cliff above the city and overseeing the confluence of Kura and Aragvi rivers.

Our next stop will be Ananuri, the castle of Aragvi dukes. From there, we'll continue north by the Georgian Military Highway, taking in its views and sites all the way to Gudauri.

Check in and dinner not too late - for the next morning,..

 Mon, Nov 4 –

Jeep tour of Kazbegi mountains

 ...we prepare to spend pretty much the whole day in and out of jeeps; that's the most convenient way to explore the region in depth. Gveleti waterfall, the Trinity Church in Gergeti, Sno and Juta valleys, and other manmade and artificial wonders await us on this excursion. Weather permitting, we'll be enjoying a full picnic lunch au plein air. Otherwise, we'll have backup arrangements at a welcoming restaurant. One way or the other, we are certain to take advantage of the local gastronomic delights, along with the classical Georgian hospitality.

 In the evening, we'll return to Gudauri for dinner.

 Tues, Nov 5 –

Kakheti region

 Today, we are parting from Kazbegi and heading back down south to the valleys below. 

 Kakheti valley has been long known for its sunny disposition, the welcoming warmth of its residents, its being one of the earliest cradles of winemaking on the planet, and a cuisine to match. Our entire drive for the day may take up to 5 hours (if we are a small enough group to use a minibus it would be shorter, as the big buses are not allowed to use the shortcut via Tianeti pass). 

 Once in Kakheti, we may stop at a local winery for a workshop about making the traditional clay wine jars, qvevri. Alternatively, if the culinary workshop will not be feasible in Gori, we may catch up on that here today.

 Our goal is to arrive at the hotel not too late, as it is a beautiful resort and a great place to relax. We'll be happy to assist you with booking spa treatments and dinner tables at the local restaurants (having dinner on our own).

Tues, Nov 6 –

Kakheti region

Our entire last proper day in Georgia is dedicated to exploring the lovely Kakheti. 

  We will admire the huge tunnel-shaped wine cave complex of Kvareli, visit the Bodbe monastery with its troubled past, sample local wines made by the ancient recipes, and explore the charming Sighnaghi, city of love.

  As always on the last night of a tour, we'll carry on to the farewell dinner where we get to share impressions and relive our experience through our own and each other's recollections.

 Wed, Nov 7 –

Return to Tbilisi, Departure 

After breakfast and goodbyes, this is the time to go home. The ride to Tbilisi airport, barring irregularities, takes about 2.5 hours. Any departures from 1:30 pm onwards should be fine. If yours is an evening departure, free time in the city (or joint activities) can certainly be arranged. 

 Talk to Rabbi Eli if you'd like assistance with staying another night in town.